Don’t you hate those wine websites that ask you for your country, then confirm you are off legal drinking age before letting you continue. (Like any underage person wouldn’t tel a fib to get past the homepage?) Well Lindemans does it even better (or worse). First you have to choose your country from a long list : Albania, Afghanistan etc. It is near the bottom of the page, so you have to actually scroll down before you get to their (our) home country – Australia. Then it asks if you are of legal drinking age. At nearly 50 years old I think I was safe to click on yes. But the gatekeeper wasn’t satisfied and the very next screen it had to ask me another time. I guess it was kind of like somebody asking to see my ID at a pub. It’s a long time since it’s happened to me, but I’ll take it as a virtual world compliment.
I went to the website to try and find out a little more about the 1999 Lindemans Hunter Valley Steven Vineyard Shiraz Bin 9825 which I happened to drink a few nights back. Unfortunately once I got passed the homepage, there’s absolutely no information of interest to me regarding this wine. But Google is my friend…
I love it when a wine reminds you of where it came from. This Hunter Shiraz first tastes of old leather, dirt stable floor and soft ripe plums. There’s some very soft oak and pepper as it develops and opens up given some time in the glass. I only had the one bottle of this which is probably just as well because I’m not sure it’s goot too many more years in it left. Certainly the best years are behind it.
With a simple BBQ the wine did well, but anything more robust would have easily overpowered it. It would work well with some mild cheese and biscuits before dinner. But for close to $30 (from what Google tells me) I believe there are much better buys out there now.
Here’s what others have to say:
An aroma of leather, menthol, blackberry fruit and anise. A palate of plums and soft lingering length. In its prime. 86 points.
Coming in at a moderate 13%, the nose is clean with plums and vanilla initially. A touch of air and the shiraz fruit comes to the fore- spicey, licorice and violet notes, tight on the palate with nice oak in the background. The final glass has the wine opening up more in the mouth with hints of leather, earth and blackberry. Medium bodied, lingering ripe tannins, the oak and fruit flavours persist in a long finish.
It’s a famous vineyard from a great producer and is classic proof of the Hunter’s ability to produce certain wines that age with incredible style. Just enjoy.
Of Hunter Valley Shiraz and Lindemans, Langtons says:
Once seen as the classic red wine of Australia, Hunter Shiraz may well bounce back as buyers seek a variety of Shiraz experiences. Its reputation has been somewhat tarnished over the years as the region has become more commercialised. Tyrrell’s, Brokenwood, Tamburlaine, Rothbury Estate and others are doing much to win back the confidence of fine wine buyers. The early leaders, Lindemans and McWilliams, after rather dull performances in the 1980s, are on the comeback trail, too. Classic Hunter Valley Shiraz shows an opulent, complex, plummy/earthy/leathery bouquet with concentrated, earthy flavours, plenty of fruit sweetness, ripe tannins and length. The term ‘sweaty saddle’ has often been used to describe old Hunters. The smell of an old Chesterfield sofa is another description. Too much of these characteristics, I think, destroy the wine. The best Hunters can age for decades. Witness the dense and brooding 1965 Lindemans Bin 3100 Hunter River Burgundy. Some of the old Maurice O’Shea wines from the late 1940s and early 1950s have also stood the test of time. More recent classics are the 1986 and 1991 Tyrrell’s Vat 9. The 1998 Brokenwood Graveyard is a very great wine.
Lindemans was established by Royal Navy surgeon Dr. Henry John Lindeman who planted vines in 1843 at Cawarra in the Hunter Valley. The business thrived and in 1870 Lindeman purchased land at Ben Ean in the lower Hunter Valley. Ben Ean continues to be Lindemans ‘brand home’. Although Lindemans experienced several difficulties, take-overs and restructures throughout the 20th century, its reputation for table wine remained unsullied.
Today Fosters Wine Group owns the Lindemans brand. During the late 1950s and 1960s, it became extremely famous for its Shirazes. Witness the catalogue of brilliant wines, particularly the 1959 Bin 1590, 1965 Bin 3100 and Bin 3110 Hunter River Burgundy, arguably the greatest wines ever produced in the Hunter. Its image faded during the 1970s despite the growing reputation of its benchmark Semillons. Fashion and poor brand marketing largely caused this hiatus. Its show success attests to this.
Notwithstanding the vicissitudes of the last few decades, the Hunter Valley can produce some of the most beautifully complex wines. Lindemans Hunter River Shiraz wines, particularly Steven Vineyard, can be excellent but are probably not investment wines. They simply don’t have a track record on the secondary market. Similarly, the Semillons (once called White Burgundy, Hunter River Riesling and Chablis!) suffer the same problem. The wines are nonetheless reliable, although the reds can lack the energy and concentration so often associated with the best Hunter reds.
Most of Lindemans Hunter Valley vineyards lie on classic red clay soils around the foothills of the Brokenback ranges or on the sandy alluvial soils of the creek flat below. The Lindemans wine brand is fast becoming disconnected from its origins. Of course business comes before sentiment, but it’s a pity seeing the slow purposeful death of a once very great Hunter wine label as marketers favour global sourcing and branding.







